Catch up time...

I have been telling myself for weeks that I need to get back to this blog, but in Bangkok, there always seems to be something else to do… Anyways, sorry for the long absence, I am still here, doing well.

I returned to the US for Christmas. I had surgery on the 19th, so the rest of the break was honestly a blur. I enjoyed (I think!) seeing my family, spending my birthday with my parents & Mike, and visiting with my brothers & friends. I was surprised at my reaction to the cold weather in Wisconsin, although at the time it was pretty mild. The heat here must be getting to me, as 30 degrees was hard to handle!!

I returned to Bangkok on New Years Eve with Mike. The night before I had been telling his mom how safe I felt in Bangkok, so I was shocked the following morning when I heard about the bombings. Other than the even fewer number garbage cans around the city, & the little I have read in the censored papers, I have not seen much evidence of the violence, and I don’t know a great deal about what exactly went on... So, things returned to ‘normal’ quickly, and 2007 is flying by.

School is going well and we are almost through with 3rd quarter. Mike & I are adjusting to togetherness after a few years apart, and it has been great to have a constant friend to explore with. I am impressed at his seemingly effortless ability to adjust to the craziness of Bangkok. He has found a job teaching at a private Thai school. He begins each day with an adventurous 90+ minute commute on the water taxi, subway & bus to get to school. His school has over 5,000 students and is housed in a building based on the Disneyland castle... consequently he often has interesting stories to share!



I have made it out of the city a few times, with trips to the beach. It is always refreshing to breathe fresh, clean air, and have an unobstructed view of nature. I came to a decision when I was at home, that I will return to Thailand next year to fulfill my contract. I am enjoying myself, and feel there is still so much to see & experience in this part of the world. I genuinely miss hiking in mountains, swimming in rivers, and enjoying fresh cold air, but it gives me something to look forward to returning to.

We had a great time a few weeks back roving around the city when Mark & Michelle came through. It is fun to share the madness with friends from home. I find myself taken back on what I now consider normal when seen from an outside point of view. I have another old friend coming this weekend, and am looking forward traveling with my Mom & Adam in another month.



So, just a quick update of the last 4 months... I will try to do a better job of keeping up, as it is much easier to recall the details. Thanks for your interest & encouragement (Robin!); it is fun to share my experience. Other than another trip planned home this June, I intend to be here through May of 2008. An open invitation and a promise of some flabbergasting moments still stand. Enjoy the year of the Pig.

Holiday in Cambodia

I have just returned from an amazing holiday in Cambodia. I left just a week ago, Saturday morning at 4:30 AM. I headed with my friend Emily, a girl I work with, to the train station in central Bangkok. Since the train we planned to take to the border is a commuter, we had to get there early to get seats. The train left at 5:55…. About 45 minutes later we passed our apartment building! So, not off to the smoothest start, but it was amusing. The train ride lasted about 6 hours, with stops every 20 minutes or so. Many Thai people hopped on and off loaded with food and goods to sell at various markets. Finally around noon we stopped in Aranya Prathet, and after dealing with 3 stops along the border, we headed into the lovely town of Poipet, Cambodia. We were warned to pass through the town as quickly as possible, and NOT to stay the night… It was good advice as there was an immediate distinction between the 2 countries.

After some persuasion, we found that the most logical (while expensive) way to get to Siem Reap was through a share-taxi. So we packed into a compact car with a couple from Germany to head north. Along the road we saw much evidence of the havoc the rainy season has reaped on the dirt roads. There were areas where the road was under waist-high water. At each of the pools, there were locals waiting around to help guide transportation through. Children would lead the cars through the shallowest area, and then hold out their palms for a tip. It was an adventure, at times a bit scary and trying, but we made it. While going through the deep areas, the bottom of our car filled with about 6+ inches of water, but would quickly drain as we made it through.



We arrived in Siem Reap and checked into a guesthouse. Upon checking in, we were lined up with a driver to take us to the temples. For $12 a day, he would take us wherever we wanted to go.

We spent spectacular 2 days exploring the temples. They are amazing… really. I encourage everyone to check them out. Each temple is diverse from the next, while open to exploring, and remarkably beautiful. I instantly became interested in the history upon seeing the differences in the temples. I was persuaded by one of the many locals touting goods, to buy a guidebook. I did not realize until later that night, that I was handed a book in French…. Although I have been considering freshening up on the language I have not studied since high school, I don’t believe a book on ancient Cambodian temples is the best route…

The temples were built over a period of 600 years. The Cambodian god-kings each strived to better their ancestors in size, scale, and beauty, with the culmination being the world’s largest religious building; Angkor Wat. Hundreds of temples survive in the area today. The temples are the heart and soul of Cambodia, and a source of pride and inspiration to all Khmers, whose recent history has been quite trying.
Angkor Wat with Reflection

Overgrown Temple

Young Artists selling watercolors

Buddhist Nun

Bayon Temple, (my favorite)

Temple With Blue Sky

After 2 days of exploring, we spent the third around Siem Reap. We started the morning with a boat ride checking out the floating village of Chong Kneas. Then we headed to a silk factory, which was extremely interesting. The organization is called Artisans D’Angkor, a cultural rehabilitation project that encourages locals to train and work in different areas of silk production. The factory is involved in every step of the process, beginning with growing mulberry trees. The leaves are then fed to silk worms over a period of 27 days. Once the worms have eaten their fill, they surround themselves in a silk cocoon. A percentage of the cocoons are left to hatch, produce eggs, and continue the cycle, while a majority are used for silk. These cocoons are steamed and stirred with a whisk to extract a thin strand of silk. The strand then goes through a monotonous process of spinning and winding to make everything smooth, before it is dyed, and used in the weaving process. Each step was incredible to see, and the looms were fantastic. It did make me anxious to move somewhere where I can set up my loom! The women weavers, through a translator, were very excited to hear that my mom is a weaver. At the end of the tour there was a beautiful shop filled with many silk goods made on site.



After the silk factory, we headed to a children’s hospital to donate blood. The hospital is run by a man from Holland, and provides free medical services to children. We then filled up with a delicious Khmer dinner, (the food was excellent), and headed to bed anticipating the long journey home.

We returned to Bangkok using an alternative route, as even the share-taxi’s had stopped attempting the treacherous road. We began with a 6-hour boat ride to a town called Battambang, then a 4-hour share-taxi to the boarder, and finally a VIP bus back to Bangkok. Total travel time for the day was just over 17 hours… but we made it safely, and it felt good to be back ‘home’.

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It has been almost 3 weeks since returning from Cambodia, as I have dealt with some computer problems delaying this update. I have stayed busy since returning to Bangkok and work… The biggest news is that I joined a local gym. I LOVE IT!!! It is brand new, and I am still one of only a few members. I have a personal trainer named Kuhn Maew. She is tough, and thinks I am extremely fat. I guess compared to the tiny Thai women, she is partially correct, but we are working hard on fixing that. I often spend a few hours each evening after school running, using the elliptical or wave machines, lifting weights, stretching, and sometimes joining yoga or aerobics classes. I am so happy getting back into cardio activities, while not being concerned about the drastic heat, air pollution, or traffic. It is nice to have something to do with my evenings as well.

I am counting down the days/weeks until I head home for Christmas. I am very anxious to see my family and friends, as well as having some much anticipated surgery. I will be in Wisconsin from about Dec. 17th through the end of the month. I hope to catch up with many of you who are keeping in touch, and reading this blog… Thanks to all who keep in touch, it is comforting, and appreciated… it makes the challenge of living far away much easier.

Fall in Bangkok

Time Flies. Today marks the first quarter of the school year. It is hard to believe how fast the last three months have passed... Things are going well in Bangkok. I am feeling very refreshed after a weekend on the beach with 13 other teachers from ASB. Friday afternoon I left school to catch a bus to Rayong, about 200 km. south of Bangkok. From there we hired a speedboat to take us to Ko Samed in the dark of night. 9 of us met up with a few other teachers for dinner on the beach after settling into bungalows. After dinner we headed to a bar/dance club right on the beach for copious buckets of alcohol and dancing. Yes, they sell alcohol by the bucket here... we share. Saturday was a much needed, relaxing day spent on the water. After a few hours of early rain, the sun peaked out, it felt great. Dinner was an adventure to the other side of the island. The restaurant was a floating structure about 100 yards from the shore. A small Thai man pulled 12 of us across the water on a small raft while we tried to stay balanced. Once we made it, we were seated on low tables that met our laps as our feet hung underneath over the open water. It was a great atmosphere, and I really enjoyed the company getting to know my co-workers outside of school.



The weekend before my good friend Gina was in town. She made it in on Wednesday evening, as I was recovering from a bout of food poisoning. I was on the uphill, so as I spent Thursday and Friday at school, Gina adventured out around the city. We stayed busy in the evenings checking out different shopping areas, massage parlors, and restaurants… Friday we went to Patpong, the notorious sex-district. We stayed out of the go-go bars, while opting for a more virtuous dinner with traditional Thai-dancing.



Saturday we went to Chatachuk weekend market, and then on to Wat Arun. From there we hired a boat to take us around the canals, as most of Bangkok is connected by water. We then headed to Khao San road, a bustling area of guesthouses and hostels, well known in the young backpacking community. We walked around a bit, had our hair washed, and had one last good-bye Thai dinner. Gina headed out early Sunday morning, a short but sweet visit. I really had a good time. I have been putting off some “touristy” things now that I am a resident of Bangkok, but this town has so much to see, I had a good time exploring with Gina.




I am currently researching for my October break coming up at the end of the month. I had planned to travel to Laos solo, but revised my thoughts when I realized that Laos was one of the only countries that my mom has not traveled to, (at least in Asia). So, as I am expecting her, (and hopefully Tim too) to visit sometime next spring, I am now thinking Cambodia. As I have read that Cambodia is not quite as safe for a woman traveling alone, I will travel with a friend I work with.

I hope to spend a few days in and around Siem Reap, checking out Angkor Wat and other temples. If possible, maybe travel to the countryside… but Emily and I are keeping our schedule pretty open to what comes along.

Soooo… as the rains here continue to fall profusely, I am missing the changing colors of fall, but enjoying my experiences. I am planning to head back to the good ol’ USA for Christmas, which I am really looking forward to. I will be able to spend my birthday with my folks for the first time since high school.

I offer a standing invitation to any friend or family, (or combination of the two) to come on over to Bangkok. I guarantee an interesting experience… Enjoy your week.

Post-Coup Update

Well, it seems as though the excitement of the coup has couped out. Bangkok is back to “normal”... I am still figuring out what exactly that means... As I was busy with school Thursday and Friday, I hadn’t been out around town since pre-coup… until this weekend. While I kept my distance from the non-violent overthrow, I did check out many photos of the action online. Captions like one I read titled, "armed but not dangerous" explained the situation well. Here are a few:

Buddhist Monks awaiting alms.

Tanks retreating with a banner of the His Majesty the King in the background

I had a great weekend. I had some friends over for dinner Friday evening, and I spent yesterday with Sherry.

I met up with Sherry at the Sky Train in the morning, and we headed to ChatuChak Weekend Market. After a few stops on the Sky Train, we transferred to the Subway. Public transportation in Bangkok is so plentiful and convenient; this was my first time on the Subway… until now I have experimented with the water-taxis, motor-taxis, tuk-tuks, taxis, busses, and the Sky Train. The Subway is amazing! It is one of the cleanest areas of Bangkok, a bit confusing, but I plan to utilize it more often, and catch on. After a few hours in the maze of the market, we had lunch and made it back towards our end of town. We both live near the Thong Lor Station, on opposite sides of Sukhumvit. There we stopped at a local massage parlor where we had 60-minute foot massages, which as always, were incredible.

We decided to keep it up, and after dropping a few things off, headed down the road to check out Al Gore’s film; An Inconvenient Truth. If you have not seen this movie yet, I urge you to go as soon as you can. The movie is staggering with information about Global Warming. I believe that Gore has scientifically established all of the information he presents through years of interest and concern on the subject. It really is shocking to learn how fast things are changing on our earth, and how we have the power and knowledge to work on altering things for the better… We really need to educate ourselves, and be conscious of our choices… please check out the movie, no matter how you stand politically!!

Okay, enough of a lecture…

I headed out this morning to run some errands around town. I saw my first evidence of the coup while walking down Sukhumvit. A hummer full of men in uniform drove by, while at the same time I walked by another man in uniform sitting on a lawn chair at a busy intersection, holding a very large rifle, while sipping a soda and talking on the phone… It wasn’t too alarming!

After a few more hours around town, I went to my first yoga class. (Yes, I know I mentioned this a few weeks back, but a few spells of bad luck got in the way… Along with the rains we have been having daily, a black cloud hung out above my head for a few weeks, needless to say it has moved on, and I have as well.)

So, I was able to finally start yoga today… Bikram Yoga is a style of yoga developed by Bikram Choudhury. The 90-minute class consisted of a sequence of 26 yoga postures and two breathing exercises. Bikram yoga is done in a room heated to 105°F…. Yes, 105 degrees!!! It was pretty intense and challenging, but extremely fun.

I have been pleased with my attention to the small affects the rainy season has had on the heat. I now feel that it is relatively cool when it is in the mid-80’s, compared to the pretty constant 93°F, which I am adapting to. Therefore, working out in 105° was demanding, but I can’t wait to go back!

I am looking forward to the week as my good friend Gina is heading to Bangkok this Wednesday. It’s a good thing that the coup cleared up because I have been extremely excited for her visit. She will stay for a long weekend, and I can’t wait to see her and show her around town!

So, now it is Sunday evening, and I am keeping my eye on the clock as in about 25 minutes my mom will start running a half-marathon!!! SHE IS AMAZING, and in my thoughts!!! Enjoy the week, and thanks to all for keeping in touch… it means a lot, and keeps me sane in this couped out city!

A real-life Coup!

Yes, a state of emergency has been issued, and a coup has taken place, or is being attempted at the Government House in Bangkok. I am fine, and would have slept through most of it had it not been for my friend Joe calling. When the phone rang at 11:30 tonight, (Tuesday here) I almost ignored it to resume my interrupted dream, but decided to see what was going on. I was informed that school has been cancelled for tomorrow, and that a coup had taken place... strange way to wake up.

A bunch of teachers met upstairs, (thanks to the convenince of living dorm-style in the same apartment building). None of us were too familiar with the background of the situation, and most information has been gathered from CNN or BBC. I guess that the local TV stations have been taken over, and for a while were displaying the Royal emblem and playing patriotic songs, but have now gone blank.

The coup is against the Prime Minister, who is currently in New York meeting with the UN. A group called "Council of Political Reform" is supposedly behind the coup, and announced their loyalty to the king. Everyone here supports the King, so I don't think that means too much.

From where I am, nothing seems out of the ordinary. I guess there are tanks around government buildings, but there have been no reports of violence... Soooo, I guess you can keep informed the same way as me, from the information superhighway! I will keep in touch, but no worries!

A day in the life...

A typical day in the life.... I wake up each morning to the sounds of roosters. Yes, there are roosters all over this city. It still is quite charming, a fun, and quaint way to start the day. My brow is moist by the time I step outside, the contrast from the air-conditioned interior to the sauna-like heat is still quite stifling, but becoming familiar. I walk down my soi, which is more of an ally than a street, as many others are starting their day. There is a large diversity in the happenings. Men in business suits hop on the back of motor-taxis to be transported to the office, while women push their carts of fruit to the marketplace. Vehicles filled with construction workers fill the beds of trucks with standing room only on their way to one of many building sites around the city. All sorts of foods are being prepared, with smoky scents filling the street. My favorite is the grilled baby bananas, which produce a very sweet aroma. Children in uniform are heading to school; they smile and practice their English as they pass by, while I practice my Thai. Buddhist monks walk with their bright orange robes and bowls to receive alms, their food for the day. Women in robes and slippers assemble around the vegetable man, who announces his deals through a mega-phone, as he sells his goods out of the back of his truck. (If I am not aroused by the roosters, I am awakened from him!) After about a kilometer of this, I turn a corner, and am no longer in a timeless, extraordinary, old-world atmosphere, but back to the reality of a city, with honking horns, and busy drivers on their way to work.


I am happy, and feel that I am acclimating to Thailand quite well. At school we were given a lot of information on culture shock, and the many forms it takes, and symptoms it creates. I feel this culture has been a definite shock to my system, but I am slowly adapting and appreciating the experience.

School is great. I am working on my organization, as preparing for 9 different classes of many age levels is quite different than what I am used to. I am having fun, and enjoying the creative excitement that art brings to many children. My high school class, (I have just one), is amazing. The students are extremely respectful, hard working, and very talented. We are working on a challenging still-life drawing, and they are determined! It is very fulfilling.


The Klong, (channel) by my apartment, and a water taxi.

I am enjoying the other benefits of living in a city, as I will begin a yoga class next week, and am working on my Thai language skills. I try to find time each weekend to visit some site in the city, usually a temple. I have been experimenting with transportation, and have enjoyed the adventure and convenience of the water taxi. The first ride was an experience, as most signs at each stop are written in Thai. I would say that walking is still my favorite, as the sidewalk is where most of the action takes place!

So, thanks to all for keeping in touch. It is great to share this experience, and hear about all of yours. Enjoy your week!


Wat Arun, (Temple of Dawn)


Wat Po, (The Reclining Buddha)

Culture Shock

Well, it's been a month, and I am adjusting... Actually things are going well. I arrived in Bangkok on July 14th. I survived the 24 hours of travel with a good friend from college, Cathy. Cathy and I had hardly seen each other in the last 3 years, so it was great to catch up. After an exhausting trip from Chicago to Tokyo, and then on to Bangkok, we spent the night at Sherry's. It was not too difficult adjusting to the 12 hour time difference, as we were ready for bed when we arrived, and it was conveniently 11:30 at night in Thailand. The following morning we took the Sky Train to Chatachuk, a weekend market where you can find anything... really. Cathy did a bit of shopping, and we took a break for our first Thai massage. We rushed through the afternoon and took a train that evening to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand.



The night train in Thailand is always exciting... lots of travelers looking to save money on a place to stay for the evening bunk up on the coffin sized beds. Cathy introduced me to the smoking bar car, and we met many young travelers from all over the world while we enjoyed the local Singha beer. The following morning we met my brother Ben at a guest house in Chiang Mai. It was great to see a familiar face in a foreign land, and hear about Ben's adventures in Laos. That evening we took a tuk-tuk, (a small, exhaust-spouting, golf-cartesque taxi) to see a Thai boxing match. Muay Thai is the national sport of Thailand, and it is really quite brutal. The evening started with very young boys fighting, and progressed to young men as the night went on. The competitors can punch, kick, elbow, head-butt, knee, well pretty much use any part of their body to knock down their opponent. I had had enough by the end of the night, but Ben was intrigued, and went back the next afternoon for a grueling 3-hour course.

We spent a few days in Chiang Mai, mostly walking around, seeing temples and shopping, before we headed south for a layover in Bangkok, and a trip to the beach on the island of Ko Samet. Ko Samet is just a few hours from Bangkok, although the bus trip to Rayong dragged as some form of Thai karaoke blared over the bus speakers for the entire trip. We spent the night in Rayong, and caught a ferry to the island early the next morning.

Ko Samet was beautiful. It was just a nice, relaxing escape, and a time to unwind and adjust. I was beginning to feel a bit overwhelmed with my decision to habitate in another extreme as the idea of Ben and Cathy leaving soon drew closer. A few days on the beach did us all well, and we returned to Bangkok for a few days before my friends headed home.



I have since started school, and moved into an apartment. My school is in a bustling area of Bangkok, just off of Sukhumvit Road. Although Sukhumvit continues across the country, creating one of the longest roads in the world, the area I am near is one of Bangkok's busiest commercial and shopping districts. Bangkok is hopping 24 hours a day. The streets and sidewalks are full of everything you could possibly imagine. My olfactory senses are constantly being attacked as I walk down the street while unidentifiable meat of all shapes and sizes are being cooked on open grills. Frogs, birds, and fish are often waiting on piles of quickly melting ice to be chosen for a snack. Grills become transportable as they are attached to the front wheel of bicycles, and ridden down the busy street. Beautiful fruit that I have never before seen, and can't wait to use in still-lifes, are being sold every few meters. I am quickly making up for my 2 years in the bush, where fresh produce was unheard of. For 10 baht, (0.25 US), I usually buy half of a pineapple for breakfast on my way to school, but I am trying new kinds all the time.

Men in orange vests congregate at corners offering rides on motor taxis. After a few weeks, I gained the courage to ride on the back of one, as it is a quick and convenient way to get around. The bikes wind through traffic, and I know that I am taking my life in their skilled and fearless hands. Today I attempted my first balancing act sitting side saddle as I rode in a skirt, everything is exciting! This town is never dull.




My apartment is in a 20+ story building, about a 15 minute walk from my school. My 2 balconies look out onto the city, and a canal that is frequented by speeding water-taxis. I have heard the water taxis are the cheapest way to get around the city, but not too visually stimulating, as a high curtain is pulled to protect the passengers from the toxic splashing water.



I am slowly taking in the cultural stimulus, and adjusting to the drastic change of pace… well pretty much everything. My body is adjusting to the heat, and suddenly a slight breeze feels cool.

School is keeping me busy, and my students are great. It is nice to have students excited to learn, who value, appreciate, and desire an education. My students are from all over Asia, and bonded in school through their ability to speak English. The most adorable, happy, young student is a 9 year old who shares the same name as a certain notorious Al-Qaida leader. It is hard not to smile when I see him. I am enjoying the challenge of teaching a wide-range of ages, as I am the art teacher for 1st through 12th grade. I am also sharing some of the challenges I faced in Alaska with a lack of supplies, but I am guessing that getting them here will be much easier.



I am off to bed, it is 12 hours earlier here, so I have already experienced your day… enjoy! I will post photos soon, so check back. Feel free to be in touch, my email is norellla@hotmail.com